How to Plant, Grow, and Care For Lily Magnolia Trees

Lily magnolias are gorgeous shrubs and small trees that produce some of the prettiest flowers of spring. If you're thinking about planting one, read ahead as gardening expert Melissa Strauss gives the details on how to grow and care for these wonderful plants.

Close-up of a blooming lily magnolia tree with large, showy pink and purple flowers featuring long, narrow petals, set against smooth dark branches, with large, glossy green leaves emerging around the blooms.

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Magnolias are a beautiful and enchanting group of plants that produce some of the most beautiful and fragrant flowers around. They are easy to care for and add much beauty and grace to the garden and landscape.

While we commonly think of the evergreen types when we hear the name, there are stunning deciduous species, as well. Among them is the sweet and petite lily magnolia tree with its delicate beauty and understated charm. Let’s learn how to grow it!

Lily Magnolia Overview

A tree displaying striking, rich pink blossoms with long, petal tips curling back, set against slender, dark brown branches and large oval leaves with a glossy sheen.
Plant Type Deciduous Shrub or Tree
Family Magnoliaceae
Genus Magnolia
Species Lilliflora
Native Area Eastern China
Exposure Full sun to partial shade
Height 8’-12’
Watering Requirements Average
Pests & Diseases Scale insects, honey fungus, coral spot, root rot
Maintenance Low
Soil Type Loam, clay, sand, slightly acidic, moist, well-drained
Hardiness Zone 5-9

What Is a Lily Magnolia Tree?

A tree adorned with lavender-pink flowers featuring long, ribbon-like petals, clustered along thick branches, with broad, glossy green leaves arching gracefully below.
This compact tree brings stunning blooms to smaller gardens.

Lily magnolia is a species of shrub or small tree that falls into the Magnoliaceae family. This family includes both deciduous and evergreen species, each producing large, fragrant, beautiful flowers and broad, attractive foliage.

Lily falls into the deciduous group, which typically produces a greater number of blooms, though they are usually smaller than their evergreen cousins. They are just as easy to care for and make a beautiful addition to any garden, even those smaller spaces where many trees can overwhelm. 

Characteristics

Deep purple-pink flowers with pointed petals are blooming from thick branches, surrounded by emerging, small, glossy green leaves in a sunny garden.
A balanced branching shape makes pruning almost unnecessary.

Deciduous species in this family tend to be more compact than the full-sized evergreens. The lily magnolia has a lower growing habit that is more shrub-like, but you can train them into the form of a small tree with some early, selective pruning. Left to their own habits, they tend to be multi-trunked and grow to between eight and 12 feet tall, which makes them perfect for spaces where the larger species would be impractical. 

These deciduous plants spend the winter in dormancy, showcasing their smooth, gray bark and well-balanced branching shape. They naturally grow in a pleasing form and require little, if any, pruning for most of their lifespan. 

In spring, before their leaves grow back, large, fuzzy buds swell and break open into large, softly colored blooms. A mature plant can produce hundreds of blooms at one time, covering itself with gorgeous, goblet-shaped, pink and purple flowers that have a wonderful fragrance. 

The blooms face upwards, showcasing their attractive shape and highlighting the deeper color of the outer tepals. They are four to five inches long and can have anywhere from seven to 20 tepals or petals. The flowers have a citrus fragrance, not unlike the giant Southern magnolia. 

Soft, broad, green foliage follows as the flowers fall, making this an attractive addition to the summer landscape. While it is primarily a spring bloomer, a happy plant can continue to bloom sporadically in the summer. The leaves do change to bronze and yellow in the fall, but the colors are not typically noteworthy. 

Native Area

Soft pinkish-lavender flowers with elongated petals open along dark, flexible branches, contrasting beautifully with the young, small, deep green leaves that have a waxy finish.
They’re naturally suited for slopes and shaded garden spots.

Lily magnolia is native to southern and eastern China. It typically grows at forest edges, on slopes, and in moist but well-drained soil. It is flexible about light and soil type and handles more shade than most species. 

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Planting

The best time to plant deciduous magnolias depends on your climate, but always while it is dormant. In warmer climates, like zones 8 and 9, you can plant in late fall or in winter, as the soil stays workable in these regions in most cases. In cooler climates, wait until late winter or early spring as soon as you can work the soil. 

Transplanting

A close-up of a young potted magnolia plant with oval, pale green and yellowish leaves stands next to a dug hole in the soil in a sunny garden, ready for transplanting.
A wide hole makes it easier for roots to spread.

Prepare your lily magnolia tree sapling by watering it the day before planting. This will hydrate the roots and help protect them from the stress of transplanting. Dig a hole that is as deep as and twice as wide as the root ball. Digging a wider hole loosens the soil, making it easier for root establishment. 

Amend the soil with compost, leaf mold, or manure to improve drainage and provide nutrients that will break down over a long period. Position the plant as you prefer and backfill around the roots with the amended soil. 

Water your newly planted magnolia well, and cover the ground with mulch to protect the roots and hold in moisture. Leave a few inches of space around the trunk to avoid fungal infection. After planting, apply a balanced, slow-release fertilizer. 

For the first six months, water your newly planted magnolia two to three times weekly. Adjust your watering schedule according to the amount of precipitation you receive. The ground should be moist but not soggy. Overwatering can lead to root rot. Once established, these plants are fairly drought tolerant. 

Growing from Seed

Close-up of a young, new pink bud covered with green, slightly fuzzy foliage on a thin, bare branch in a sunny garden.
Harvest seeds when pods split open and release them.

Growing a lily magnolia tree from seeds is not the preferred method, as it takes many years for it to grow large enough to flower. They’re most often propagated by cuttings or layering, which we will cover later. Germinating seeds is not difficult, though, as long as you know what they need. 

  1. Harvest your seeds from ripe seed pods. They will split and release their seeds when they are ripe, so keep an eye out for your pods to split.
  2. Magnolia seeds need a period of cold, so you’ll need to plant them outdoors in the fall or cold-stratify them indoors in the refrigerator for two to three months before planting.
  3. You can soak the seeds after stratifying to expedite germination, but it’s not a requirement.
  4. You can plant your seeds directly in the ground or in pots. You will have more control over those started in containers, so I recommend this. Plant them about 1/4 of an inch deep in a moist, well-draining potting mix.
  5. Maintain moisture throughout the process, as these are water-loving trees. Initially, place your containers in a brightly lit space out of direct light.
  6. Once your seeds sprout and show some growth, you can move them to a spot that receives several hours of direct sun in the morning.
  7. As your plant grows, you can move it to a larger container to accommodate it. Wait until the following winter or spring to put it in the ground.

How to Grow

Your lily magnolia tree will require some initial care to establish itself in its new space. After this, it is easy to maintain and requires little care beyond fertilizing and watering during prolonged drought.

Light

Dark, branching stems support large, fragrant pink flowers with gently curved petals.
Afternoon shade can protect leaves from scorching in hot weather.

Sunlight is important for the production of flowers in your magnolia, so the generally accepted condition for this plant is full sun. However, in warmer climates, they benefit from some shade in the afternoon. The afternoon sun can be intense and scorch the leaves. 

Six to eight hours of sun early in the day is the ideal condition for your lily magnolia tree and all species that fall into the Japanese magnolia category. 

Water

Close-up of a young cupped flower with delicate purple-pink petals covered in raindrops on a thin branch.
For the first six months, water every two to three days.

Your newly planted tree needs regular watering to establish its roots. Magnolias have shallow root systems, so make sure to water deeply. Depending on your precipitation, water every two to three days for the first six months after planting. Avoid watering the same day or the day before or after a heavy rain. Overwatering can cause root rot, which is common in these plants. 

For the two years following planting, ensure your plant gets water once per week—about one inch weekly is sufficient. Once they are well established, magnolias are pretty self-sufficient. 

Soil

Close-up of a gardener's hand full of fresh, loose, brown soil against the backdrop of a garden bed.
Compacted soil can hinder root growth, so loosen it.

Lily magnolia trees are tolerant of a wide range of soil conditions. They don’t mind clay-heavy or sandy soil as long as there are sufficient nutrients. The only caveat when it comes to soil is the pH. These won’t thrive in alkaline soil. Make sure to conduct a soil test to ensure that the soil is slightly acidic. 

Ideally, your plant will thrive in loamy, moist, well-drained, and slightly acidic soil. Compacted soil can negatively impact root development. These are not salt tolerant, so they don’t do well in coastal gardens. 

Temperature and Humidity

Dark grey, woody branches hold deep purple-pink, tulip-shaped flowers with gracefully pointed petals, accompanied by emerging glossy green leaves in a sunny garden with various container plants.
Humidity doesn’t bother them as long as airflow is good.

These plants tolerate a wide array of temperatures, ranging from zones 5 to 9. They are quite cold-hardy and also handle the summer heat of zone 9. If the thermometer rises above 95°F (35°C), extra watering is in order. I have seen occasional leaf drop when we experience a heat wave in my region. It’s always short-lived, and they rebound quickly. Just give extra water during these times. 

While they don’t require an excessive amount of humidity, they don’t mind it either. The ideal range is between 30-50% humidity. Here in North Florida, we commonly have long stretches of humidity in the neighborhood of 80%, and it causes few issues. As long as your plant has adequate air circulation, it should be just fine. 

Fertilizing

Close-up of hands in blue gloves holding a handful of multi-colored granular fertilizers over a bag full of fertilizers.
Annual fertilizing keeps your plant healthy and blooming.

These don’t require much fertilizing. As long as the soil is acidic and contains enough organic matter, you’ll not need to supplement much. Top dressing with compost and mulching once or twice a year will maintain a healthy soil condition. 

As long as the soil is in good condition, you’ll only need to fertilize once a year. In late winter, before the tree blooms, use a balanced, slow-release formula or one that is higher in phosphorus and potassium to support flowering. 

Maintenance

A stunning display of large pink flowers with pointed, oblong petals emerging from twisted branches, framed by young clusters of glossy green leaves with pointed tips in the garden against a backdrop of various young flowering trees and bushes.
These plants are self-cleaning, so there is no need to deadhead.

Magnolias are self-cleaning, so deadheading is not necessary. They typically bloom only once per year from buds that develop the preceding summer and fall. In the first two years, a bit of extra fertilizer will help encourage your plant to put on growth. 

These grow in a naturally pleasing shape, so regular pruning is not only unnecessary, it’s undesirable. Pruning dead and diseased wood is fine, and you should remove it. However, pruning for shape can cause water spouts that interfere with the natural shape. In the first years, you can prune to achieve a more treelike form. 

Propagation

A female gardener in a plaid shirt and crimson apron trims a cutting from a tree using pruning shears.
Use sharp shears and a clean pot for propagation.

The ideal time and method of propagation is by softwood to semi-hardwood cuttings in the spring and early summer. Trees propagated this way will bloom much sooner than those grown from seeds. Your cuttings can bloom in as few as two years. You can also propagate by layering, but we will focus on cuttings, as this is the more popular method. 

You’ll need a clean, sharp pair of shears or loppers, loose, well-draining potting mix, a medium-sized nursery pot, a jar of water, and, optionally, rooting hormone.

  1. Select a branch that looks like it will grow into a nicely shaped tree. Use soft or semi-hardwood for the best and fastest rooting.
  2. Take six- to eight-inch cuttings, making your cuts diagonally just above an outward-facing bud. Place your cuttings in water as soon as you cut them.
  3. Remove all but the topmost leaves from your cuttings and make a two-inch slice vertically through the middle of the cut end.
  4. Fill your container with moist, well-draining potting mix. Adding some perlite will help improve drainage and promote root development.
  5. Optionally, dip the cut end into the rooting hormone. Then, with the cut end down, place the cutting into the potting mix.
  6. Cover your cutting with plastic to create a small greenhouse. This holds in moisture and provides humidity to keep your cutting fresh and healthy.
  7. Place your container in a warm spot with bright but indirect sunlight and keep the soil moist.

Common Problems

Lily magnolias don’t have many enemies, but there are a few things to watch out for. Maintaining good watering practices and plant hygiene will prevent most issues before they start.

Pests

A magnolia branch covered in clusters of waxy, grayish-brown, rounded magnolia scale insects.
Use horticultural oils to combat scale insects effectively.

The most common and concerning pest to worry about is magnolia scale. These are the largest scale insects, and magnolias are their favorite food. The adults are stationary, they attach to small twigs and branches and feed on sap. The young move about more and you’ll commonly see them beneath leaves. 

As the insects feed, they leave behind a sticky excrement that causes black sooty mold to grow, which interferes with photosynthesis. Horticultural and neem oils are usually effective at eradicating these pests, but you may have to treat them more than once. Try to treat while no flowers are present, as these treatments can also affect pollinators. 

Diseases

Magnolia leaves covered in a soft, white, powdery fungal coating, with some leaves showing curling, discoloration.
Prevent honey fungus with well-drained, dry soil.

Most diseases that affect magnolias are fungal and associated with overwatering. Some of the more common fungal diseases among these plants include honey fungus, coral spot, and root rot. The best ways to prevent fungal diseases are to practice good watering habits and plant in well-draining soil. Prune away damaged leaves as they crop up to prevent the spread to healthy plant tissue.

Frequently Asked Questions

What can you plant lily magnolias with?

Some plants that appreciate similar conditions include camellias, azaleas, hydrangeas, and ferns.

Is it safe for pets?

Yes, these plants are non-toxic and will not harm pets or people.

How do you overwinter them?

A thick application of mulch in the fall is always a good idea. Otherwise, these are quite cold tolerant, so they need little other protection.

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