How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Saucer Magnolia Trees

Ornamental trees are necessary additions to the garden. They act as focal points and backdrops, and some work well as living hedges! Saucer magnolias are some of the most striking ornamental flowering trees. In spring, they bloom giant, saucer cup-style flowers on naked branches.

These magnolias are hybrid specimens. They descend from two other species, and nowadays, there are dozens of saucer varieties with different-colored blooms, varying heights, and unique habits. This ultimate selection provides ample choices for gardens, from large sunny yards to shady small sites. 

Native Area

Saucer magnolia trees come from the parents, Magnolia denudata and Magnolia liliiflora, which originate from central China. 

Because these descendants are hybrids, they rarely flee into wild environments. Instead, they stay within cultivated gardens without escaping. Seedlings may sprout but need cultivation and care to grow into mature trees. 

These hybrid trees tolerate conditions similar to those in central China. They grow well in temperate zones with regular seasons but they can thrive in USDA hardiness zone 9 with protection from the afternoon sun. 

Characteristics

Some features will help you identify these hybrids. They have a single trunk, though some tend to sprout multiple thick branches from low on their trunk. You’ll see them with a single or multi-stem structure. The bark is slightly fragrant, emitting a soft smell when you crush, cut, or bruise the wood. The smooth, gray bark has light gray spots on mature specimens.

In late winter and early spring, saucer-style blooms emerge from buds all over the trees’ canopies. They resemble tulips, which is why the species also goes by the common name “tulip tree.” 

The blooms are one way to tell these magnolias apart from others. They open up towards the sky and look like cups on saucers! They typically have nine petals that are wine red, white, pink, or purple. The color depends on the variety.

The leaves are distinct from other types; they’re lush, green, and slightly lighter in color on the undersides. They’re oblong and have sharp points at their tips. 

Planting

The best way to get a saucer magnolia in your garden is to find a potted tree at a local nursery. The saucer types are incredibly popular, and nurseries should have a few varieties available. You may also grow these trees from seeds, though the seedlings are unpredictable; they’ll grow differently than their parents. 

Transplanting

After sourcing your potted magnolia, it’s time to get it in the ground! The best time for transplanting is in autumn; that way, the tree grows hardy roots to secure itself and blooms without issues in its first year. You may also plant these trees in early spring, though it may affect their blooms if the buds are already forming. 

Start by preparing the hole. Dig a hole as deep and twice as wide as your tree’s rootball. Avoid amending the soil, as it’s best to have the roots grow into your garden’s native soil. Cushy amendments in the hole can cause short, dense root systems that struggle to anchor the tree. 

With the hole dug out, you can place your tree’s rootball in it. Pack soil around the roots, holding onto the trunk to keep the tree upright. Continue filling until the soil reaches ground level. Water the site well, then watch the dirt. If it sinks, add some more so the hole is level with the ground.

Now is also a great time to stake your tree! Add two stakes on either side of the hole, then secure the trunk to them with rubber or string ties. You may remove the stake six months to a year after planting to determine if it can stand without support. Restake the specimen if it falls over; if it stands upright, you can let it grow hardy in the wind. 

Growing From Seed

To grow seedlings, you must first find seeds of Magnolia x soulangeana! They’re available online, though they’re much easier to source from local trees. Find a saucer magnolia, wait until fall when seed pods form, then collect the orange-red seeds when they’re ripe.

These seeds germinate after undergoing cold stratification. Cold stratification is a period of cold temperatures in fall and winter that helps the seeds sprout in spring. They’ll struggle to germinate without it. You may plant seeds in the fall so they undergo this period naturally, or you can store them in your fridge to stimulate the outdoors.

For indoor cold stratification, find a plastic container or baggie. Glass jars with metal lids work, too, though you’ll need a drill to modify them. Poke holes in the lids to promote airflow, then fill the containers with moist moss or coco coir. Put the seeds inside, then place the container in your fridge for three to five months.

When ready, plant seeds a quarter to a half inch deep in moist potting soil. These varieties love growing in fertile dirt, so use compost, potting soil, or a combination of materials with plenty of organic matter. The seedlings need consistent moisture to thrive. 

How to Grow

These trees grow well in a variety of climates, from New York to California! Give them the conditions they prefer, and they’ll reward you with showy spring blooms, stunning green foliage, and uniquely patterned bark. 

Light

These hybrids prefer growing under two to eight hours of daily direct sunlight, in full sun or partial shade. They benefit from afternoon shade during the sun’s hottest hours in summer. They appreciate open, airy locations with lots of space to grow tall and wide. 

Because they bloom in early spring, the flowers are especially sensitive to temperature changes; they’ll freeze if it gets too cold. They’ll open their flowering buds earlier than normal when they warm up from intense sunlight. Avoid planting them in southern exposures so they bloom well after the last spring frosts. 

Water

Though spectacular, these trees require lots of moisture to perform their best. Don’t be skimpy on the irrigation, or you’ll grow a weak, poorly structured specimen. It’s better to water regularly during the growing season so the roots stay turgid, healthy, and perky.

These magnolias are deciduous and enter winter dormancy as temperatures drop in the fall. They require less water during dormancy, though they don’t like to dry out. Keep their soil moist, not soggy, and they’ll survive the cold months without injuries.

Soil

Grant your magnolias moist, fertile, and well-drained soil. These trees dislike standing water and soggy soil; they do poorly in sites with excessive amounts of clay. They’ll grow well with a loamy mix that has equal amounts of silt, sand, and loam. 

If the soil is full of clay or sand, you can amend it with compost. Compost boosts fertility, water absorbency, and drainage in poor sites. Add a layer two to three inches thick, and top it up with more as the layer settles and decays. 

Saucer magnolias prefer slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.5 and 6.5. Use garden lime to raise the pH if it’s too low, and apply garden sulfur to lower the pH in sites with alkaline soil.

Temperature

Saucer-type magnolias grow best from USDA hardiness zones 4 through 9, though their blooms may suffer from late spring frosts in zone 4. These specimens prefer frigid, cold temperatures during fall and winter and warm, sunny conditions during spring and summer. 

These hybrids bloom well in temperate regions with distinct seasons, though they struggle where winter temperatures average lower than -10°F (-12°C). Grant them protection from harsh winds, ice, and snow, especially during late winter and early spring when flower buds begin forming.

Fertilizing

Grant your hybrid tree plenty of nutrients to keep it happy and healthy. It’ll appreciate an annual dose of compost or fertilizer; use whatever you have available. Compost is beneficial because it adds organic matter to the soil, though organic fertilizers work well for delivering nutrients. 

Most trees fare well for years if their soil is fertile. It might be time to fertilize if you see signs of nutrient deficiencies like yellow leaves, few flowers, or poor growth. Use a soil testing kit to determine what nutrients are present or absent, then fertilize accordingly. Magnolias require ample amounts of nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorus, low levels of calcium, magnesium, and sulfur, and trace amounts of micronutrients like boron. 

Maintenance

Little pruning, spraying, or maintaining is necessary to keep saucer magnolias growing well. If the specimens outgrow their space, you may prune their aggressively growing branches. 

I have a neighbor who heavily prunes his tree after the flowers fade. The specimen responds by sprouting many thin branches to replace the pruned ones. Though unsightly when dormant, this creates a small and well-rounded tree that fits in his front yard. 

You have two options when pruning for shape: multi-trunk or single-stem. Single-stem specimens grow tall, while multi-stem ones reach far and wide. Prune your tree so it grows how you’d like it to. 

Propagation

There are two main ways to propagate saucer magnolias: by taking cuttings or saving seeds. Each has benefits and drawbacks that make it suitable for different use cases. Take cuttings if you’d like to reliably propagate a variety you enjoy, and sprout seeds if you want to grow new varieties of magnolia. 

Cuttings

Cuttings are how growers reproduce varieties and cultivars. It’s an asexual method of propagation that makes clones from a mother plant. To start, select softwood branches during the growing season. Softwood is wood that grew this year; it’s typically pliable, green, and flexible. 

Start by pruning five to six-inch long stems, ensuring each one has two leaves on top. Immediately place the cuttings into a jar of water to prevent them from drying off. Snip off their lower leaves, then prepare containers or trays. Fill the pots with soil, stick the cuttings in, and place the pots in a tray with a humidity dome on top.

Ample humidity is necessary during the rooting process—the cuttings lack roots, so they take in moisture from the air. Lots of humidity allows them to stay turgid and well-watered while they root.

After they grow again, you can remove the dome and let the rooted cuttings sit under partial shade. They’ll be ready for transplanting in autumn before the first frost sets in. 

Save Seeds

Saving seeds is a great way to have a backup source for future trees. You can cultivate seedlings in pots for years before planting them in the ground. Magnolias that grow from seeds are variable, meaning they have different qualities than their parent plants. They may grow tall or short and display unique flowers, leaves, and seed pods.

Save seeds by sourcing seed pods in late summer and early fall. Brown cone-like structures will appear throughout the canopy, with red-orange seeds popping out. You may snip them off the tree or wait for them to fall to the ground.

Store seeds in a paper, glass, or plastic container. Place the containers in a cool, dry place away from temperature fluctuations and sunlight. The fridge is ideal for storing seeds long-term, so long as they’re inside containers to prevent them from drying out.

Popular Varieties

Three standout varieties offer exceptional qualities. Small, medium, and large gardens can have a saucer-type magnolia—the key is finding a variety that suits the yard. Another consideration is bloom time; some bloom in late winter, while others flower in spring. Choose late-blooming varieties in cold climates to avoid frost damage on the flower buds. 

‘Black Tulip’

‘Black Tulip’ is a standout variety with spectacular flowers that are the darkest of any saucer cultivar. The petals are a deep burgundy color. When in bloom, the entire tree looks covered in burgundy! 

This cultivar reaches 30 feet in maturity, though it’s a slender grower that fits well in tight spaces. Prune it to keep it small if you’d like, and plant small saplings in containers when they’re young. ‘Black Tulip’ works well as a hedge, shrub, or specimen tree. Grow it in the ground in harsh climates to avoid frost damage. 

‘Lennei’

‘Lennei’ is a large variety that reaches 25 feet tall with a similar spread. It fills empty spaces, creating a lush, dense canopy above lawns, gardens, and walkways. 

‘Lennei’ blooms are dark on the outside like ‘Black Tulip’ flowers, though they have white hues on the inside of their petals. The contrast between dark purple and bright white creates a stunning display in the landscape. The blooms appear later than other cultivars, making ‘Lennei’ an excellent choice in cold zones 4 and 5.

‘Lilliputian’

‘Lilliputian’ is the smallest of these three varieties, reaching 18 feet tall in maturity. It has a small spread between 10 and 15 feet. Its blooms are similar to ‘Lennei,’ except they’re light pink on the outside instead of deep red. The petals’ white interiors shine in the spring!

Like ‘Lennei,’ this variety blooms later than similar saucer types. It’s an excellent choice for small gardens in cold zones.

Common Problems

Magnolias are generally pest and pathogen-resistant, though they sometimes face issues during their lifetime. Learn which ones are most common, and you’ll be able to spot them early on. Before spraying any pesticides, first identify the issue. Proper identification is the first step in resolving pathogen infections and pest infestations, and it helps you find a suitable solution. 

Pests

Aphids and scales are the two most common pests of saucer-type magnolias. They aren’t major issues for large specimens, though they can harm young saplings. 

Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects. They typically show up in clusters. Remove them by spraying them daily with strong water. You can also squish them with your finger, though this method isn’t good for the faint of heart!

Scales are a little more difficult to deal with. They have hard outer shells that protect them from insecticides, squishing, and rubbing. They also spread sooty mold, a fungal condition that can harm your tree. Ladybugs and parasitic wasps are predatory bugs that control scales when abundant.

Scales have armor when mature, though they’re soft-bodied when young. The young are in the crawler stage, meaning they lack protection as they move from leaf to leaf. The crawler stage is the best time to target them, as they’re more susceptible to pesticides than armored adults. Use a low-impact spray like insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, and spray the infection sites in the morning or afternoon while pollinators aren’t active. Prune away heavily infested branches.

Diseases

Sooty mold, leaf spot, and canker may appear on weak specimens. Diseases show up when conditions are ripe for their spread—fungi like moisture, bacteria thrive in crowded conditions, and viruses live in plant pests that target weak specimens. 

Sooty mold will disappear as insect infestations drop. Target the pests, then wash off the black fungal patches with strong streams of water. The mold grows on honeydew from insects and won’t survive if that honeydew is absent. 

Frequently Asked Questions