7 Roses You Shouldn’t Prune Until They’ve Finished Blooming

It's getting to be blooming time for your roses, and along with blooming, we have to think about pruning. Here are some types of roses that you should always prune after they bloom.

Close-up of roses in bloom that shouldn't be pruned, featuring clusters of delicate white flowers with soft, rump-shaped petals in the center, surrounded by dark green, glossy leaves on sturdy, thorny stems.

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Roses are one of the most popular and coveted plants, and their blooming is one of the most anticipated garden events. The excitement of watching those buds start to swell keeps us going outside to check daily, not wanting to miss a single moment of their petals unfurling.

The first time a new rose blooms is especially exciting. You probably have an idea of what the flowers will look like, but seeing them in person, in your yard, is something special. The transformation from a leafless cluster of stems into a spectacular display of foliage and flowers

Knowing when and how to prune your roses is an important factor in maximizing their bloom. If it doesn’t happen at the right time, you can miss out on a lot of action, or they can fail to flower altogether. Technically, all roses are best pruned right after they flower, but some do better when you prune them early in the spring, before their first flush. 

The factor that determines whether you should hold off on trimming until after the bloom is the number of flushes. If a rose flowers repeatedly, it means it blooms on new wood. Trimming these early in the season will encourage new growth and, thus, flowering. For those that only flower once per year, they form buds on old wood.

When you cut them back before they bloom, you cut off the buds, and they will have a mediocre bloom if they do at all. Let’s take a look at some different types of roses and why you shouldn’t prune them until they’re finished blooming in the fall.

YouTube video

‘American Pillar’

Cascading clusters of small, vibrant pink blooms with overlapping petals, surrounded by dark green, glossy leaves on strong, arching stems climbing a vertical T-shaped wooden support.
Bold pink blooms bring a wild, timeless charm.
botanical-name botanical name Rosa ‘American Pillar’
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 10’-20’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 4-9

‘American Pillar’ is a gorgeous, old-fashioned rambling rose. It has a wild look, with bold, pink, single blooms in large clusters. As an old-fashioned cultivar, this one is highly disease-resistant and overall a sturdier type than more modern varieties with grafted roots. Older types tend to adapt well to a wider range of environments. 

Along with their tough constitution, the older roses usually only bloom once per year. They have a long bloom, but once it’s over, they begin to recover for the following year’s show. These plants bloom on old wood, which is why it’s best to prune them right away after they finish flowering. This gives them the greatest amount of time to recover and allow their summer growth to mature and set buds. 

‘La Ville de Bruxelles’

Large, deep pink flowers with velvety petals paired with dark green leaves and thorny stems.
Beautiful, heavily petaled blooms captivate with their scent.
botanical-name botanical name Rosa ‘La Ville de Bruxelles’
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 4’-6’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 4-9

‘La Ville de Bruxelles’ is an old damask cultivar that dates back to the early 1800s. It has some of the largest flowers of the old roses. They are three to four inches and heavily petaled, in the perfect shade of pink. In addition, they are exceptionally fragrant with a fruity scent. 

Damask roses fall into two groups: summer and autumn. The summer cultivars only bloom once on old wood, whereas the autumn cultivars are repeat bloomers. Since this is a summer variety, it flowers on old wood; therefore, trimming it ahead of time will drastically reduce the number of flowers. You shouldn’t prune damask roses until they’re done blooming!

‘Felicite Parmentier’

Elegant, creamy white blooms with a subtle pinkish blush in the centres, set against deep green, serrated leaves and thorny stems.
Large, soft petals have a fragrance that captures hearts.
botanical-name botanical name Rosa ‘Felicite Parmentier Alba’
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 4’-5’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 5-9

‘Felicite Parmentier’ is a hybrid alba rose in the old-fashioned category. Introduced in 1834, it has stood the test of time and remains a popular choice nearly 200 years later. The large, fully double flowers are soft blush pink with a deepening shade toward the center. Layers and ruffles twirl around a barely visible green eye. 

In old garden fashion, this variety is highly fragrant, and flowers only once per year. Most old garden cultivars have this habit. As such, these cotton candy confections form on mature wood, so pruning ahead of time will cut back on the show. 

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‘La Belle Sultane’

Deep crimson petals forming cup-shaped blooms, contrasting with bright yellow stamens protruding from the centers and glossy green leaves with jagged edges.
Deep carmine blooms with a rich, delightful fragrance.
botanical-name botanical name Rosa ‘La Belle Sultane’
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 6’-8’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 4-9

‘La Belle Sultane’ is an extravagant name for an extravagant plant. The first record of this rose is from 1795. It is a gallica, and it also flowers on old wood. Most of the older varieties are like this, which is why you should hold off on spring pruning and only trim once the flowers fall. 

This cultivar is a large shrub growing up to eight feet tall. Bred in the Netherlands, it has exceptional disease resistance and is easy to care for. The flowers are single petal form, in a deep carmine, red with a hint of purple. They have a strong, pleasant fragrance. 

‘Duc de Fitzjames’

Close-up of an elegant, deep rose-colored bloom with a cupped shape, sets against dark green, glossy leaves.
Deep purple edges fade into pink, creating a beautiful contrast.
botanical-name botanical name Rosa ‘Duc de Fitzjames’
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 4’-5’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 4-9

‘Duc de Fitzjames’ is another rose you shouldn’t prune until its flowers are done with their gorgeous show. This variety is incredibly beautiful and wonderfully fragrant. The fully double, garden-style flowers are an ombre of colors, ranging from nearly purple at the edges to bright pink in the center. A yellow eye is barely visible when they are fully open. Introduced in 1837, this is a plant with true staying power. 

This is a centifolia cultivar, and these vintage roses are single bloomers. ‘Duc de Fitzjames’ puts on a show in midsummer and is best pruned immediately afterward. It is a spectacular variety with lush, dense foliage.

‘Alba Maxima’

Pure white, double blooms with a smooth texture, surrounded by rich green leaves and stiff, thorny stems.
Semi-double petals unfold into a fragrant display each year.
botanical-name botanical name Rosa x alba ‘Alba Maxima’
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 6’-8’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 4-9

Albas are another type of old garden cultivar that make nice landscaping elements. These large, well-formed shrubs are exceptionally long-lived, so you can enjoy them for many years. They are tolerant of light and will grow in partially shaded areas of the garden. 

‘Alba Maxima’ is one of the longest-living roses overall. The flowers are semi-double, so their yellow stamens show when fully open. The petals are blush, initially, fading to a creamy white as they age. These extra fragrant alba roses are once-blooming, and you shouldn’t prune them until the flowering finishes. 

‘Chapeau de Napoleon’

Soft pink, densely packed petals forming full blossoms, contrasted by dark green leaves and spiny, sturdy stems.
Large pink flowers with a delightful fragrance light up gardens.
botanical-name botanical name Rosa x centifolia ‘Cristata’
sun-requirements sun requirements Full sun to partial shade
height height 3’-6’
hardiness-zones hardiness zones 4-9

‘Chapeau de Napoleon,’ which means Napoleon’s hat in French, is a crested moss rose, which is a type of centifolia. It celebrates its 200th birthday in 2026, having been discovered in the garden of an abandoned medieval castle by a Swiss botanist. As centifolias, crested moss roses only bloom once per year, and you shouldn’t prune until afterward.

The title, crested moss, comes from the mossy covering on the buds before they open. ‘Chapeau de Napoleon’ has large, double-petaled pink flowers with a strong fragrance. It grows fairly tall but has a relaxed form, so a trellis or other support is helpful. 

How to Prune

A gardener in yellow gloves with pruning shears trims the arched branches of a rose bush with green jagged foliage and dry, wilted pinkish flowers in an autumn garden.
Remove damaged branches and give a light trim to shape.

While repeat bloomers often benefit from a hard prune in fall or late winter, once-blooming roses don’t need quite as much work. Unless you’re attempting to control the overall height or spread of the shrub, a light shaping is enough. Here are some steps to follow when your once-blooming rose finishes blooming.

  1. The first step in pruning any plant is to identify any unhealthy growth and remove it. Dead or dying branches and areas that appear affected by disease or pest infestation are the first to go. Don’t try to save these for the sake of the shape, as they can end up causing more harm than good.
  2. Deadhead completely by removing any remaining flowers and the ends of flowering branches. Basically, give the entire shrub a light, all-over trim to encourage growth without stressing it by cutting it back too far. Cut the stem back to the next outward-facing bud to encourage growth outward instead of toward the center. 
  3. Depending on the type of rose, you’ll want to thin out the interior by removing crossing branches and thinning out areas that appear crowded</strong>. These dense areas are more susceptible to fungal diseases as less air circulates there, and moisture may remain on the leaves rather than evaporating. 
  4. Avoid major pruning during the hotter months, as it is more stressful for the plant. After your light pruning, apply fertilizer to help your rose recover from the nutrients lost to the blooms. 
  5. Once you’re finished trimming and fertilizing, cover the base of the plant in mulch to insulate the roots, keeping them cool and holding in moisture. Water deeply, and then continue with normal care throughout the rest of the season.
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