How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Currants

Currants are used to make jams, jellies, sorbets, cordials, syrups, fruit salads, cakes, and crumbles. There is an endless list of how to use your currant harvest.  There are four different colors to choose from, each with its own unique flavor and use. It’s easy to see why gardeners love to grow currants. 

Pink and white currants look like delicate jewels hanging in huge bunches. They are deliciously sweet eaten fresh from the bush. Red currants, and especially black currants, are tart and require a little sugar to enhance their intense flavor. 

Not only do these little berries taste great, but they also pack a nutritional punch. They are high in vitamin C. One 80g serving is equivalent to 200% of your RDA (recommended daily allowance). They are also high in phosphorous, iron, antioxidants, fiber, and protein. Plus almost fat-free.

Currants were once referred to as the ‘forbidden fruit’ in the US. They were banned in the early 1900s due to the risk of commercial growers spreading a blister rust disease. This disease is fatal to white pine trees used in the logging industry. The nationwide ban was lifted in the 1960s. The decision was passed to individual states. It’s still illegal to grow them in some states, so best to double-check your location.

What is a Currant?

Currants come from the botanical family Grossulariaceae and the genus Ribes. There are three main species: Ribes nigrum (black currant), Ribes rubrum (red currant), and Ribes sativum, white and pink currants. The latter are albino selections from red currant bushes and are less acidic. 

Native Area

Currants are deciduous shrubs originating in woodland and scrub habitats in northern temperate regions across the globe. Most of the northern hemisphere and parts of South America have a few currant varieties.

All Ribes species have similar growth habits and appearance with slight variations. They are closely related to the gooseberry bush, which has a similar growth habit. They tend to grow to medium-sized shrubs approximately three to five feet high and across with an upright growth habit. 

Characteristics

Buds appear in late spring. This is followed by mid-green leaves, which alternate with a palmate appearance of five lobes and serrated margins. Stems are brown and woody when old. New growth is green and flexible. It will fade to light brown and have a woody appearance after one year.

Tumbling racemes of small green/brown or green/white flowers develop among maple-like leaves in late spring. They open into long clusters of cream or red/brown flowers, depending on the variety. Black currant leaves are a bit rounder than white, pink, or red currants. The majority of currant varieties are self-fertile. Flowers don’t last long. They soon swell to produce berries that are small, round, and green. You only need one plant to produce berries. Black currants quickly blush a dusky red in late spring. They deepen finally to produce purple/black berries around half an inch in diameter. 

Red currants, pink currants, and white currants also start off green and change to their final pearlescent color as they swell. Berries are ready to harvest from mid to late summer. The berries are the only parts that are consumed. The best fruit is produced from two and three-year-old wood. It may take a year or two to yield good harvests from a new shrub. 

Currant shrubs lose their leaves in late fall and go into a state of dormancy. This is the best time to prune and propagate. Pruning is an important element of growing to maintain good health and high yields – but more on this later. 

Varieties

Some popular and widely grown varieties to look out for are:

• Black currant – ‘Titania’ is a heavy producer of good quality large berries. Resistant to blister rust and powdery mildew.
• Pink currants – ‘Pink Champagne’ has excellent flavor and good highly resistant to disease.
• White currants – ‘White Imperial’ is a good, sweet-flavored variety resistant to powdery mildew.
• Red currants – ‘Honeyqueen’ has a great flavor from harvests of this red currant occurring over a long period. Another stunning cultivar is the ‘Red Lake’ variety. 

Planting

Bare root currants should be planted in autumn. Soak the root ball in water for a few hours in advance of planting to rehydrate. New shrubs, like potted currant shrubs, can be planted at any time of year in the home garden. But they will suffer least from transplant shock if planted in autumn while dormant.

Choose a location in full sun to partial shade. Currants grown in warmer climates will benefit from shade in hot weather. Soil should be rich, well-drained, and moisture-retentive. Amend the planting hole with lots of organic matter to give them a good start. 

They grow best in the ground but can be grown in large, deep, heavy containers that won’t blow over as they get bigger. If growing in containers, ensure you water and feed regularly.

Currants can be planted slightly deeper than their nursery pot. This helps their shallow roots anchor into the ground, ready to support all that heavy fruit. Prepare a hole twice as wide as the root ball, adding lots of fresh organic matter. With the root ball in position backfill with soil, firm in, and top with lots of mulch. This will help retain moisture and keep weeds at bay. Keep the soil moist until they are established. Provide a cane for extra support if growing in an exposed site. They should be spaced four to five feet apart.

How to Grow

A currant is easy to care for once you know how. Read on for advice on keeping your shrubs in tip-top condition.

Light

A currant will produce more fruit if grown in full sun but will also tolerate part shade. Currants prefer cooler conditions and grow best in USDA zones 3-5. Some afternoon shade will be a welcome respite to those grown in warm climates. 

Water

Water them regularly from early spring right through to harvesting to keep the soil moist but not wet. Morning irrigation is best to rehydrate shrubs ready for the day ahead. Use either a soaker hose or by hand using watering cans. Direct water at the soil and not the leaves to ensure the moisture reaches the roots. Lack of water during the summer can cause them to develop powdery mildew, so keep your watering regime consistent. After harvesting, watering can be reduced and isn’t necessary over winter into late winter.

Soil

This berry likes to grow in moisture-retentive, well-drained soil. Amend with lots of organic matter like composted manure. They are not fussy about soil type but will grow best in loam on the slightly acid side with a pH preference of 5.5 to neutral.

Temperature

Intense sunlight and temperatures above 85°F (29°C) may cause leaves to drop. A thick mulch around the base helps to retain moisture and keep the root ball cool. Currants are extremely hardy and do not require any frost protection. Protect the flower buds when a late frost is forecast. Floating row covers should give you some short-term protection until all risk of frost has passed.

Fertilizing

A deep mulch of compost or leaf mold in spring will add nutrients and keep the soil moist and cool. Use a balanced fertilizer to feed your berry bushes every few weeks in spring. This will boost fruit production. Too much nitrogen can encourage a lot of new shoots of leafy growth and disease.

Maintenance

Proper pruning is essential to maintain good health and high yields. Fruit is produced on one-year-old wood and older, although two and three-year-old wood produces the most. The aim is to grow strong stems that can support the weight of the fruit. Pruning should be carried out when shrubs are dormant in winter or early spring.

Prune newly planted bushes back to an inch or two above soil level and just above a leaf node. This may seem drastic, delaying fruit production by a year, but it will help to develop a strong root system and an open structure. Cut back newly planted older stock by half to avoid wind rock and root damage over the winter months.

In the first three years, lightly prune to maintain shape and cut out any damage. This will kickstart fruit production. Prune back older bushes by a quarter to a third, removing any damaged, diseased, diagonal, or dead branches. As berries age, remove any stems that are four years or older and those that aren’t producing back to the base. 

Make cuts above an outward-facing leaf node or bud to maintain that open airy, structure.

Berries can be trained to grow as a lollipop standard or as a fan shape against a wall. Start with young shrubs that can be manipulated to fit the shape you wish to grow.  

Propagation

Much like other fruit trees, propagate currants from seed and hardwood cuttings. Plants grown from seed should produce fruit in two to three years. Cuttings produce fruit in year two.

Separate the seed from the pulp of your harvested summer berries and leave to dry. Seeds require a period of cold stratification to germinate successfully. In early fall, wrap seeds in some moist compost or sphagnum moss and place them into a tub with holes to allow air circulation. Place the tub in the fridge or outside, away from direct sunlight, for around three months. Sow the stratified seed individually into three-inch pots filled with fresh compost around six to eight weeks before the last frost. Keep the compost moist and set it in a cold frame or cold greenhouse until after the last frost date. 

Take hardwood cuttings from one-year-old wood in late fall, ten to twelve inches long. Dip the pointed cut end in rooting hormone and stick it in tall pots filled with compost. Just an inch or two of the stem is visible at the top. Place pots outside somewhere sheltered and shaded from direct sunlight. Cuttings can also be planted directly outside in trenches amended with lots of good organic matter and firmed in. Leaves will sprout on cuttings in spring and summer. They will be ready planting in their final location when strong roots have developed. This can take around six months. 

Harvesting

Harvesting and storing fruits for future use is the best part of growing this berry.  Follow our tips below to find out how to make the most of your harvests.

Most currants are ready to harvest from early summer onwards. Black and red currants will be big and juicy and have intense red or purple/black color when ripe. The best way to test if your white and pink currants are ripe is to taste and/or squeeze. If the pink and white berries taste sweet, have adequate juice, and are soft, then they are ready. 

To harvest, snip bunches of berries together from the main petiole attached to the stem rather than pulling. Pulling can damage the berries and break stems. Some light pruning can be carried out during harvest to remove any broken or diseased branches. Wash berries and consume them as soon as possible for optimum freshness.

Storage

Those for fresh eating will store in the fridge for a few days. They are best consumed as soon as possible. Berries can be stored in the freezer in bags for up to six months. Berries can also be dehydrated to make dried currants. Dried currants can be stored in an airtight container in the refrigerator for six to twelve months. Probably the most popular way to ‘store’ black currants is to make them into jellies, syrups, and cordials from fresh.

Common Problems

There are several growing issues to look out for when growing currants. We have listed a few below to help you on your currant growing journey.

Growing Problems

Currant bushes can grow quite dense, making them susceptible to wind rock. Too much moisture getting into the roots can cause rot. Wind can also damage older stems if not pruned regularly. Pruning to thin the canopy will help reduce wind rock. Cutting out older stems each year will reduce breakage and the potential for disease to establish. Provide stakes to support unstable bushes until it’s time to prune out the excess weight.

Pests

New growth can become infested by aphids in spring which feed on the sap and distort the growth of leaves and shoots. Companion planting with marigolds or calendula will help deter aphids. They will also encourage beneficial insects into the garden to feed on them. Alternatively, spray with an organic insecticidal soap or neem oil. Squishing aphids with fingers or a quick blast of water can also help reduce numbers. 

Other insects like spider mites (Tetranychidae) are tiny reddish brown arachnids that live in large colonies on the underside of leaves. Evidence can be seen as a fine webbing between stems and a rapid decline in health. Avoid spraying with pesticides as spider mites have built up a resistance to many products on the market. Chemicals can also kill natural predators such as lacewings and ladybugs. Remove and destroy the worst affected stems to prevent further spread. 

Diseases

Powdery mildew is a fungal disease that can affect currant bushes during the summer months, especially if experiencing drought. It grows as thick white dust on leaves, inhibiting photosynthesis, and hindering growth. Foliage eventually turns yellow and dies. Maintain good garden hygiene, removing infected foliage to prevent the disease from spreading and reinfection in subsequent years. Provide adequate space between shrubs to promote good air circulation. Mulch the roots to keep them cool and hydrated. Spray with neem oil at first sight of disease. 

White pine blister rust (Cronartium ribicola) is a disease that affects the Ribes genus. It causes yellow rust spots on the upper side of leaves and blistering yellow fruiting bodies on the underside. Fruit production is not usually affected. However, the disease can be fatal to white pine trees with the potential to devastate whole forests. Fungicides have little effect on the disease, so affected shrubs should be removed and burned. Choose government-approved disease-resistant currant varieties to grow in your garden.

Frequently Asked Questions