How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Lingonberry

Anyone who’s been to a certain Swedish furniture store is likely to know the lingonberry. These small red berries show up in every meal at their in-store restaurant. Skip the oddly-named jam and grow lingonberry at home to make your own!

Rich in antioxidants, the lingon falls into the category of superfoods. Studies are showing that it may aid in digestive health, weight control, and heart health. Blood sugar management may be easier with this bright red fruit. And there’s other possible benefits, too!

Today, we’re teaming up with Kellogg Garden Products to talk berries. It’s possible to grow this diminutive plant in most of the northern United States. Even those in warmer climates may have a shot at shade-growing it in the right soil blend!

What are Lingonberries?

The majority of the annual worldwide crop of Vaccinium vitis-idaea is actually wild-grown in cooler climates. In recent years, farming lingonberries is becoming a bit more common, especially with rising demand.

Tolerant of sandy, poor soil conditions, the lingonberry also survives through extreme cold. It’s a bit sensitive to hot climates, but can still be grown as an understory species or a shade shrub in warmer locales. The dwarf form may even serve as a ground cover.

Native Area

Its origins are widespread. Much of the northernmost portions of the northern hemisphere have wild lingonberry shrubs. In the United States and Canada, a dwarf form grows wild. In Europe, it grows a bit larger but still hugs the ground.

Characteristics

Tiny leaves, no more than a half-inch in length at their largest, grow from tendril-like stems. Over time, the base becomes woody, but it produces fresh growth each year. Small berries form on year-old growth.

The delicate bell-shaped flowers are a source of much delight. These tiny white or pink blossoms are only a fraction of an inch in size. They flower throughout the spring and early summer, then shift to fruiting.

Rhizomatic roots spread out beneath the soil’s surface and enable it to spread in size. The runners are easily divisible to be replanted elsewhere.

Acidity is key for this lingonberry, much like with all other Vaccinium species. Without acidic soil, it just won’t thrive. It also can be a bit finicky to get started. Once it’s established, it stubbornly clings to life!

Forms

There are two forms: a dwarf form, and its full-size counterpart. Most shrubs throughout Europe and eastward are the full-size version, Vaccinium vitis-idaea subsp. majus. These grow to a height of 12-18″, with a spread of roughly 24″. They can form a short hedgerow once they’ve densely populated their bed.

The majus subspecies is often seen growing in rocky, difficult environments. Poor soil nutrition isn’t a problem for them. Most will survive cold down to -40°F, although they may lose buds or berries in frozen conditions.

In the Americas, a dwarf variation is more common. Vaccinium vitis-idaea subsp. minus is often called American lingonberry. It grows to be only four to six inches in height, and a spread of roughly 12″ across.

This understory shrub is most commonly found in peaty, cool environments. It also thrives in the cold months, and is quite common in Canada and the northern US.

Both varieties can be grown in warmer climates as well, although they may not fruit as heavily. Most lingonberry species need to have at least 300-400 hours of cold conditions in the winter. Some need as much as 800 hours of cold.

Common Names

One of the interesting things about lingonberry is its diversity of names. As it is found in many different locations, the common names are extensive!

For Vaccinium vitis-idaea subsp. minus, those names include: dwarf lingonberry, American lingonberry, mossberry, partridgeberry, mountain cranberry, groundberry, or kimminnait.

Vaccinium vitis-idaea subsp. majus has even more names! Their list includes: lingon, linberry, foxberry, cowberry, lingberry, alpine cranberry, shoreberry, rock cranberry, bog cranberry, lingen, lowbush cranberry, redberry, red whortleberry, whimberry, partridgeberry, windberry, kokemomo (Japan), airelle rouge (France), and many other country/regional names.

Regardless of whether you want to call it a lingonberry or a whimberry, you’ve got plenty of common names to choose from!

Varieties

For Vaccinium vitis-idaea subsp. minus, there’s only one variety. It has not been widely cultivated for commercial growing as of yet. Because of this, they all tend to have white to very slightly pink flowers and an identical growth habit.

With Vaccinium vitis-idaea subsp. majus, there are at least 16 varieties, with more being developed as time goes on. Let’s discuss some of the most popular choices by region!

In the Americas, one of the most popular varieties is ‘Erntesegen’. Cultivated in Europe, it tolerates the widest range of growing conditions. ‘Erntesegen’ is also one of the most tolerant of hotter conditions as well as bitter chills.

Other American or Canadian varieties include ‘Koralle’ (known for its heavy production), ‘Scarlett’ (known for crayon-red berries), ‘Ida’ (which often produces two harvests per year), ‘Balsgard’ (a European cultivar which has gained popularity in the US), and ‘Red Pearl’ (an excellent pollenizer).

Most of those varieties are available in Europe and northern Asia except ‘Scarlett’, which seems to be unique to the US and Canada. Other cultivars there are ‘Regal’, ‘Splendor’, ‘Erntedank’, and ‘Ammerland’. These four varieties are heavy farm producers and are often referred to in research.

No matter which cultivar you choose, the berries will tend to be similar in size. The size will vary between varieties, but the fruit will be very similar in flavor profile.

Having plants of more than one cultivar is recommended for good pollination. While lingonberries are somewhat self-fruitful, cross-pollination can dramatically increase harvest size.

Planting

Lingonberries like a very specific set of growing conditions. This doesn’t mean they can’t adapt to other conditions over time, though! They may be finicky until well-established, so take time to plan in advance. They’ll be tender at first, but will gradually harden off to your garden conditions.

Timing and Zones

Cool-season planting is best. I recommend early spring for cooler climates or mid-to-late fall for warmer ones. This gives their tender roots time to get established before weather changes hit.

Planting locations will depend on your climate conditions. In cooler climates (zones 4-6), full sun conditions are perfect. The direct sunlight aids in fruit production as well. As they are rhizomatic, they will spread, so pick a location where they have some space.

In zones 7-8, full sun is usually fine, but partial shade in the afternoon will also work. The goal is to try to keep them from having intense heat during the peak of summer.

It’s possible to grow lingonberry in zone 9. Partial shade is absolutely required in this hotter climate. Pick a sheltered area that will get early to mid-morning sun. Use shade cloth in the hotter months to prevent sun damage to the foliage. They will be more finicky in this environment, so keep a watchful eye on them.

Raised beds are perfect for growing in. As long as they’re six to eight deep, you’ll have plenty of space in which they can grow. The sides of the bed will prevent excess runner spread.

How to Plant

When planting, you must provide an acidic environment. Before you plant, ensure your soil is acidic, and that it has plenty of organic material to help keep the soil moist. The roots only go down a few inches, but prepare the soil to eight inches deep.

I’ll go deeper into soil composition and make some recommendations in the soil section below. There are options available that are almost custom-built.

With gentle hands, remove your shrub from its nursery pot. Be careful not to break up the soil around the tender root system. The roots will spread out on their own once planted. Set it in the soil at the same planting depth it was in its nursery pot. Fill in around with your acidic potting mix, barely covering its nursery soil. Water it in, then add to to three inches of peat moss mulch on the soil’s surface as a mulch. Work it in around the base.

Space full-sized shrubs 12″-18″ apart, as they can grow to a width of 18″-24″ to form a solid hedge. Dwarf shrubs should be spaced eight to twelve inches apart, and will create a low-lying ground cover over time.

Sowing Seed

Start with overripe berries, gently crush them in a cup of water, and allow them to ferment. They will need to ferment without drying out for at least two weeks and up to a month.

During this time, the remaining berry pulp and bad seeds will float to the surface, while good seeds will sink to the bottom. Once at least two weeks have passed, you can skim off the gunk that forms on top.

Once fermentation has ended, skim off any remaining gunk and carefully drain off most of the water into a container. Pour the seeds and the remaining water through a coffee filter to catch the seeds.

The day you strain out your seeds is the day you’ll need to sow them. Do not let them dry out post-fermentation. As a starter mix, use two parts moistened peat moss to one part perlite.

Sow ten seeds per container, placing them on the surface. Do not cover them with soil. Instead, place a clear greenhouse cover on top to keep humidity in. Keep them in a cool, but bright location as they need light to germinate.

Keep the soil moist. The covers should remain until they’re starting to push up against the plastic. At that point, gradually introduce more air until they acclimate to less humidity. Take your time, as they will need to adapt to their new conditions.

Young seedlings will be extremely fragile and delicate. They bruise easily and are very susceptible to changes in temperature and lighting. They should remain indoors in a bright, but cool environment for their first year. If they begin to become crowded in their pot, you can transplant them into a larger one using the same soil mix. Harden them off slowly to outdoor conditions before transplanting them outside.

Companion Planting

These tart little berries are great companions for larger acid-loving berries. They make a great understory shrub for highbush blueberries, for example. Dwarf varieties look beautiful underneath currant hedges, too.

One thing to be aware of is that they do not compete well with weeds or shallow-rooted flowers. Their spreading roots and runners are only a couple of inches below the surface. Other surface-dwelling shrubs will compete with the berries for nutrition.

Don’t forget that there are many types of these berries. You can make a tiered bed by growing taller species behind dwarf plants. They’re great companions for themselves!

How to Grow

If you live in the right place, lingonberries are incredibly easy to grow. Unfortunately, the right place tends to be where the shrubs are native. For the rest of us, we need to provide the right conditions for success ourselves. Here are my best recommendations to keep your lingonberry lushly green and fruiting well!

Light

Sun is both a blessing and a curse, depending on your area of the world. In northern climates, full sun is perfect! But the farther south you go, the more the sun becomes a liability. Much of the issue is due to the sun’s intensity. Hot sunlight can cause scorching, especially on newer leaves.

For good fruiting, the more “safe” light you can provide, the better. Full sun conditions prompt flowering, which results in berries! But if you’re in zones 7-8, opt for a little afternoon sun. In zone 9, shade cloth may be required to reduce UV rays and provide heat relief.

Water

Consistent, even soil moisture is best for your lingonberries. While will accept brief periods of boggy conditions, they prefer not to have wet feet. Established shrubs need around 2.5-4.5 gallons of water per square yard each week. New transtransplantslants may need slightly higher amounts of water to assist with growth.

Drip or soaker irrigation is best, as it keeps the leaves dry. If you do top-water, be sure to water early in the day to allow for them time to dry out.

Mulching helps to prevent the soil from drying out rapidly. It’s especially needed in the heat of summer when the ground is prone to drying out.

Humidity is not a major issue for lingonberries. In fact, they seem to like slightly-damp air as long as there’s good airflow. Seeds must have high humidity conditions to get started. Established shrubs will expand via runners under the soil’s surface.

Soil

Much like blueberries and cranberries, the lingonberry requires acidic soil to thrive. A pH level of 4.3 to 5.5 is preferred for fruiting, but they can survive in levels nearing the low end of neutral. Anything above six isn’t good.

The acidity helps to produce better fruit. And, as many people grow their berries in containers or raised beds, starting with the right acid blend is essential. I highly recommend G&B Organics Acid Planting Mix.

Formulated specifically for acid-loving, shade-dwelling shrubs, this mix is almost custom-built for your berries. Recycled forest products, bark fines, and peat moss ensure good moisture retention. Fine sand guarantees that it drains excess liquid off with ease. And it’s been amended with worm castings, kelp meal, bat guano, and kapok seed meal as fertilizers.

Lingonberries, blueberries, cranberries and currants all produce high quality fruit in this mix. Some citrus trees also produce sweeter fruit in it. Flowering species like azalea, gardenia and hydrangea will burst with color and thrive.

If you cannot find G&B Organics Acid Planting Mix near you, don’t fret: there’s another option for you!

Kellogg Garden Organics Shade Mix will also provide the right environment. It utilizes sphagnum peat moss and bark fines as a well-draining but moisture-retaining base. For fertilization, it uses hydrolyzed feather meal and dehydrated poultry manure.

Starting out with one of these premade acid mixes is a recipe for success. And, since lingonberries can be a bit finicky to get started, this makes it easier to begin!

This isn’t to say that you can’t blend your own soil blend. Testing your soil pH is an important first step in that process. You’ll also need to know your soil type. Heavy clay soil can be difficult to acidify, and may need elemental sulfur to remedy.

Whatever soil blend you opt for, you want it to hold a decent amount of moisture while draining off any excess. It should have lots of organic material, allowing for good aeration, and should be loose instead of clay-like. And, of course, it’s essential that it’s in the acidic range.

I consider mulching to be an absolute necessity for lingonberries. They’re too much at risk from weed invasion. But you’ll need an acidic mulch for them.

Peat moss mimics the natural soil conditions in areas where it grows wild. In so doing, it helps them thrive through many imperfect growing conditions.

It provides a dense, acidic topper which will prevent most weed growth. As the root system of your lingonberries is within a couple inches of the soil’s surface, weeds can crowd them out. Two to three inches of peat moss will prevent most weed germination.

Moisture retention in the soil is also improved. This is doubly important if you live in a climate on the warmer side of the lingonberry range. It is important to keep moisture from evaporating away.

Finally, it decomposes into the soil, maintaining the acidity of your soil blend. Topping your mulch up regularly will keep them happy and healthy.

Temperature

Young lingonberries are more fragile and may be at risk from temperature changes. Even then, it’s more in danger of heat than cold. If you can maintain the conditions for your plant at 80°F (27°C) or less, it’s most likely to survive and thrive.

On the cold spectrum, established shrubs can survive even extreme cold. Before winter, mulch with at least three inches of peat moss to add extra warmth for the roots. Frosts and freezes may cause flowers to drop off. The shrub will survive negative temperatures, some varieties even as low as -30°F (-34°C)!

A snow blanket may form on top of your shrubs in the winter. That’s okay – the snow provides a layer of insulation from wind chill.

Fertilizing

Fertilizing this shrub can be tricky as well. Lingonberries aren’t able to take in the nitrate forms of nitrogen. They prefer the acidifying ammonium form. Because of this, it’s important to use a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving shrubs. Fertilizers meant for blueberries are perfect, as they already use a form of nitrogen they can uptake.

You can also use G&B Organics Rhododendron, Azalea, & Camellia Fertilizer, which is formulated for acid-loving plants. It’s a living fertilizer containing beneficial microbes and mycorrhizae to enhance your soil and strengthen shrubs. OMRI-listed, it includes only organic materials: a blend of alfalfa meal, kelp meal, feather meal, bone meal, dehydrated manure, humic acid, elemental sulfur, and sulfate of potash.

You should be fertilizing in the early spring before it begins to put out new growth. Go on the low end of the range suggested by your fertilizer manufacturer. They won’t need much!

You can easily tell if you’ve provided too much or too little fertilizer. Too much fertilizer will result in fast growth, large dark green leaves, and little fruit. Too little, and the leaves may turn yellow or red during the growing season and lack vigor.

Maintenance

Most lingonberries are very self-regulating in size. Pruning is often unnecessary. You can remove any dead stems, or do cosmetic trimming, but it won’t need more than that!

Dwarf lingonberries seldom get more than six inches at their maximum height. Others can grow 12-18″ tall. Their width is usually around double their max height.

If your berry has reached its full size and is starting to get a bit leggy, you can do light trimming. Keep it around its normal preferred height and width. But even then, removing dead stems is usually the most maintenance you’ll need to do.

Propagation

Propagation is done via seed, cuttings, or division. Lingonberries also naturally spread on their own via their rhizomes, or runners.

I described the complex seed process in the planting section above. But let’s talk about the others in more detail.

Select a potential healthy stem for your stem cutting that’s at least four inches in length. You’ll want one that looks vigorous and that is new growth. Avoid any which are woody or are from the prior year’s growth.

Cut it at the base of the stem, then strip off all but the top inch of leaves. Dip the bottom of the stem in water, then into a powdered rooting hormone. Use a pencil to make a hole in a prepared soil mix, then insert your cutting. Gently tuck the soil around the stem to hold it in place. I like to use a blend of two parts peat moss to one part perlite for these cuttings.

Keep your cutting in a humid environment with bright, but indirect lighting. The temperature should remain cool. Ensure the potting mix remains moist, and within a month it should begin to form roots. Treat it as you would a lingonberry seedling. Be careful not to change its conditions too rapidly!

The easiest way to propagate is via root division. Select a large and healthy shruband use a clean, sharpened shovel to cut down the center. Gently remove the berry and its rhizomes and replant them elsewhere, keeping them in the same conditions as the parent plant.

Harvesting

So you’ve managed to get berries to develop on your shrubs! That’s great! But now, you’ll need to know when and how to harvest and store your berries. Let’s discuss that.

For the first year after planting, don’t harvest your lingons. The berries will be a bit small, and the harvest will not be good. It’s best to let those berries drop into your mulch. They may produce new shrubs there!

Starting with the second year, watch them. When the berries are firm and completely red in color, you can pick them. Depending on the cultivar, they may ripen all at once or slowly over a few weeks in the late summer. Typically, this will happen in September.

In warmer regions, they may produce two harvests: one in mid-summer and the other in late fall. If they do, you’ll see flowering again in the summer if they are going to produce more!

To harvest only ripe fruit, it’s best to pick by hand. If you’re trying to do a large harvest all at once, you can use a berry rake to harvest all the berries, ripe and unripe. Those which are unripe will ripen even after being picked.

Lingonberries vary widely by cultivar in the quantity of berries. The conditions they’re grown in also impact the harvest. However, a good rule of thumb is that if they’re producing well, there will be a half to one pound of berries per shrub per year. If your berries produce a second harvest, this may slightly increase. Hot climates may see smaller harvests or none if the shrubs is heat-stressed.

Storage

Much like cranberries, store your lingons in a plastic bag with ventilation holes. They can be kept in the refrigerator for up to a month, but taste better when fresh.

These are typically tart berries. While one can eat them fresh, they are often used to cook with or make sauces or syrups. Once they have been cooked, try to use the open containers within a week’s time.

Freezing is the most common way to preserve these, as it maintains the shape of the berry. They freeze extremely well.

Drying through either dehydration or freeze-drying is also common. The fruits can be rehydrated later, or can be powdered for use in other foodstuffs.

Canned lingonberry in jams, jellies, and syrup is quite popular, too. This is how many people in the United States were first introduced to this less-common fruit!

Common Problems

Very few pests are likely to cause damage to your berries themselves, but there are diseases to watch for. And of course, there’s a variety of random growing problems which might happen. Here’s how to handle them when they arise.

Growing Problems

Foliage that yellows or reddens in the spring or summer months is not uncommon. It’s sometimes accompanied with slow growth. Generally, this is caused by too little fertilization. A yearly application of a light fertilizer in early spring should remedy this.

If the leaves are larger than normal and it’s experiencing rapid growth, it may be a sign of too much fertilizer. This is generally a sign of too much nitrogen. A high-nitrogen environment can also cause low fruiting. Reduce the amount of nitrogen in your fertilizer to stop this problem.

Heat stress can also result in low fruiting, as can lack of pollination or cross-pollination. Make your beds attractive to pollinators, and ensure they’re cool. In hotter environments, provide shade. Planting more than one variety of lingons can improve pollination.

In the fall and winter, it’s not uncommon to see leaves turning purplish in color. This is usually a sign of the shrub using the chlorophyll that it had stored in its leaves. It’s not going to cause any harm, and isn’t a danger.

Pests

Generally, lingonberries are relatively pest-free. But the few which may be attracted can be a real pain!

Cucumber beetles may be a problem. The Western spotted cucumber beetle and striped cucumber beetles are found in Oregon fields. These need immediate response before they can lay eggs, as the larvae attack the roots. Adults feed on lingon foliage.

Some sucking insects, such as aphids, mealybugs, or whiteflies, have been observed. They don’t seem to do much damage, but may be at risk of spreading diseases. Neem oil is a good choice for control.

Lingonberry fruitworm is common in Canada and other areas abroad. These larvae of a small moth species will burrow into the fruit. They don’t cause damage. Still, they are hard to detect, and may cause damage to your fruit. You probably won’t know you have them until you find them in your harvest.

Armyworms may also be a problem. You can easily tell you have them as the leaves begin to get munched on! They can rapidly defoliate your berries.

For both lingonberry fruitworms and armyworms, use a powdered form of Bacillus thuringiensis. This bacteria, often abbreviated to BT, will kill off these larvae. You will need to re-dust your berries after rain. Liquid versions of BT may also be effective.

Don’t expect all of your pests to be of the insect variety. Deer, elk, and moose will browse on lingonberries. Rodents such as mice, rats, or squirrels will raid the bed as well. And birds can be a real pain when the berries are ripe.

Diseases

Bacterial leaf spot is the most common disease issue for most lingonberries. A product containing Bacillus subtilis can be applied, providing an organic solution for most leaf spot diseases.

Fungal leaf spots are particularly problematic as well. They can be treated almost identically to bacterial ones.

Botrytis blossom blight is another problem. More common in humid environments or when top-watering, it is fungal in origin. It will cause a greyish mold to form on the flowers and fruit. It’s also treatable with Bacillus subtilis.

What’s not as easily treated is phytophthora root rot. Caused when the soil does not drain well, this fungal root rot can be fatal. Yellowing or browning leaves may appear, and the growth slows or stops. Over time, continued rot will cause failure. Ensure you’ve got well-draining soil to prevent this issue!

Frequently Asked Questions